Tweet
ok Dave, done some flying on the weekend and i'll ammend my figures a little bit, my air speed indicator is reading right with in a couple of knots give or take(according to my gps)with full fuel, myself rugged up(cause it was f*ckin cold)AUW would be about 325kgs on 25'ers gives me about 1.48 lb/sq ft, and for me to sit on 50 kts is 5200,55 kts the rpms is 5500, 60kts is about 5900-6000rpms, not sure of pitch on prop though full noise on take off gives me now about 6500(loosing up abit).Average over 3.5 hrs of flying including ferry and escorting some moos to one end of a paddock was about 18 lts/hr.Remember -- A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...BUT a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"Mark
-
-
Thanks Mark.Seems we both have open frames, similar disk loadings, same engine (within 20cc or so) except I'm running 23' DW's and you have 25 footers. The numbers say an extra 2' of disk & 50kgs more weight give 10kts better cruise and 2 lts/hr less fuel consumption. [:0] Eh?Any ideas on what other factors are in play? Otherwise ....anyone got a nice long DW hubbar for sale? [
] Dave
Comment
-
My carb ice problems continued, I've now installed a carb ice kit, which so far has done the trick. It works by recirculating hot water from the head to little aluminium jackets around the carb bodies. I've got a temperature probe on one carb and can see this working compared to another prob showing outside air temp. Given I had this setup before the kit I can see the difference it makes for a given temperature. There is no noticable drop in power, maybe because it's not heating the air, just the bodies, supposedly enough to stop ice from sticking.Image Insert:
38.56
Comment
-
Very impressive Dave.I think your heaters are the best I've seem to suit a Rotax.I know their was an electric option availabe, and many Trikes imported from England had them as an option, but from the feed back I got, most people removed them due to a decrease in performance.My previous machine had all the wiring, and switch, but no heaters.This system you have fitted seems realy shmick!!!, only problem is its price in pounds ?????Did you try Bert Flood, to see if they can supply the kit ?Have you fitted a shut off valve for summer flying ?Regards Sam. [
]
Comment
-
Sam I got the kit direct. Worked out at $AUD248.92 So thats what peace of mind on this issue costs exactly [
]The instructions say that there is no need to bypass in non-ice situations. In any case, Summer can still be high humidity. They say there is no measurable power loss, I definitely can not notice anything so far. From the carb temp probe I have it is not raising the temp above the ambient air from the probe at the front. So it doesn't cook the carbs, seems just enough heat to melt any ice that tries to form. Dave
Comment
-
quote:Originally posted by Albert Einstein SikorskyThey say for carby ice to form or even airframe ice to acumulate(not relative unless your flying above freezing level)there has to be VISIBLE moisture....cloud...mist...rain...fog...but im not sure if high humidity alone is sufficient unless it was very cold.The above is a common and dangerous misconception. Ice can easily form when no visible moisture is in the air.If it is very cold there is LESS chance of ice forming in the carb, the worst risk factor is WARM humid air.
Comment
-
Comment