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Dominator Style Gyroplane

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  • Dominator Style Gyroplane

    There is a gyro for sale here in the north of Tasmania.It is a Dominator style with a tall tail and powered by a 503, has a pre-rotator and I believe elec start.Tomorrow Friday 11th December I am attending with an interested purchaser to examine closley the gyro in question.I am told it is an extremely good build and is over $10,000 from memory.Will take photos and post details of the craft after I"ve had a good look.Mitch.

  • #2
    Turned out to be a good build and an even better buy..... Les purchased the gyro, gps and trailer for $7,500I kid you not.It has an older single ignition 503 said to be 35 hrs since new. Les intends to put a 582 on a some point in the future. Mast has been replaced after a tip on landing.Pull start, elect pre-rotator toe operated band brakes, push pull control stick 3/8" heim rod ends, no binding. 40 ltr Minty seat tank pod and screen. 24 foot Jack Allen Blades.

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    • #3
      Gyro probably built by Rod Milne c1995. But not with that pod.

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      • #4
        Muzza,Pod is to long for my mind. Can easily be cut down by 10-12 inches.Blades Are Jack Allen 24 footers. See attached.Are there any issues with these blades?The Hub bar looks to be 3/4" and the blades and pillar block all appear in good nic.Mitch

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        • #5
          Nothing wrong with Jacks blades. Check all the usual things, take the hub block off and check for scratches or cracks.That tail would be from Mike Cole. Nothing wrong with his work but check for delamination in the ply if it has been stored for a long time.Did they change the rod ends after the prang?The pod would have been added later,Rod would never have attatched something that ugly.

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          • #6
            Looks like a dingle thimble!mark ;D

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            • #7
              Thanks Muzza,Spoke to Les tonight, the Dom pod is s$%^&*sr infront and has low side skirts, so Les will make the pod approx 10" s$%^&*sr and may also take the side skirt down, on both sides to reduce "flat plate" area forward oif the center of pressure.OK, so it"s likely a Rod Milne build with a tail from Mike Cole. Rod Hill who sold it to Les, said the Tall tail was originally flat packed when sent but it did not look like an Owen Dull tail, as per the HS fixing process. Tail lokked to be in reasonable condition.Rod ends are 3/8" look OK but not changed out. We were told the mast was changed out and one blade off three blader broke, when she tipped.There is the usual oxidization on the alloy parts and spot rust thru paint in places.Rotor head was not rebuilt or measured for "true".

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              • #8
                G"day MitchI would replace the rudder cables because the nicopress sleeves have been squeezed the wrong way, which also means that the wrong tool was used. Also, inner and outer cables like that are prone to hold water in the cable.Yes you are correct, it is not a good idea to have an aluminium washer on the bearing bolt as this holds the total weight of the gyro.

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                • #9
                  Great to see you posting again Tim.I have seen you lurking a bit lately but now you have made it official.All the best.Graeme.

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                  • #10
                    Hi MitchYes, Les has contacted me and is planning on starting his Gyroplane flight training early in the new year.Seems like a nice machine, my biggest concern would be if its been involved in a roll-over and the prop was involved in a ground strike, then the engine could have a bent crank. A bent crank will chew out your bearings causing a failure. This is the chance you take with Rotax A&B boxes (looks to be a Rotax B box). C&E boxes are fitted with a rubber donut which protects the engine against power pulsations & ground strikes.In order to check it the crank will need to be removed and checked with a dial gauge. If the crank is out of tolerance then the cranks needs to be waked back into shape by use of a rubber mallet. The catch is there is a sequence you need to follow to do so.Congrats Les, and Good Luck

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                    • #11
                      G"day MitchI would replace the rudder cables because the nicopress sleeves have been squeezed the wrong way, which also means that the wrong tool was used. Also, inner and outer cables like that are prone to hold water in the cable.Yes you are correct, it is not a good idea to have an aluminium washer on the bearing bolt as this holds the total weight of the gyro. Thanks Tim,Good to hear from you Mate. Les rang me last night and we discussed further, planned works on this gyro.I am posting pics here for comment and advice which Les and I appreciate very much.

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                      • #12
                        Take a look fellas.All advice appreciated.System inspected almost nil slop and no binding of rodends through out the range.Cheers,Mitch

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                        • #13
                          two more
                          ..........

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