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Nick, Don't eat worms , they taste like dirt... I have an EA 81 manual you can borrow , give us a ring if you are passing thru Singleton & you can grab it. There is a Subie wrecker in Newcaslte ,Cardiff Auto Dismantlers on Munibung Rd. , that had a couple of EA 81's when I was ther last - may be worth a phone call. You'll be right , Nick. Giving up gyro flying is like giving up sex ( except I can fly for an hour or more easy....)
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Gentlemen,I appreciate your sympathy.Mark,I appreciate your offer, if you do have one spare I would be most thankful if you could forward it to 219 The Round Drive, Avoca Beach NSW 2251, this way at least I can establish a few things about how well it will run if restored.. I have an EJ 18 in the shed that should be a cracker but no redrive to suit unless I mod the adapter plate for it.Fred,You're right, but the follower in this instance stopped at the bottom edge of the block, the OP was about 20 when I cranked it up the other day, well down on the usual 75, but still there, it it may not have suffered any damage as a result of loss of OP. Looking at the ends of the push rod they were the classic brittle failure in some spots and highly polished on the rest, I wonder how long it has been running like this before it failed, and the bend is not a small one, the failure is one such that the rod was not able to separate immediately so it may have been running on a bent rod for either a short time for since the last time I pulled the head off - when I fitted the redrive, I have no idea which it is but would suspect the latter - if you recall had issues with the engine not running well and suspected that I had dropped something down the manifold, I'm beginning to think this is a series of compounding mistakes ending up making one bloody big one - the cheese holes all lined up for this one. Oddly enough I was able to diagnose that that side of the engine was the source for nearly the same reasons as I found I had reversed my leads during the redrive fitting - cold exhaust from one side, having a twin system is very hslpful when it comes to trouble shooting a subi.Tim,Thanks, it would appear from an initial glance the push rod is the only issue to be sorted with the motor, it looks good but I'd liek to do a compression test soo to determine what the pots are like. I've had a nagging suspicion that it was never 100% on all pots but not applied a test to it at any point short of stroking the prop through all pots to see which one was good or bad, one of them was good but not as good as the rest of them.As to the rockers I am mystified - one has R, two have 'p' and another has 'f' on it?? any ideas?? Have I got a dodgy motor?Eka,How do you know that worms taste like dirt??? Thanks for the offer of a manual and I know of the bloke of whom you speak, I think I might have suggested that people contact him of the forum some years back, when I bought the EJ 18 that is sitting in the back of my shed here... yes, I'm thinking of it, jsut have to butcher Ric's redrive... hmmm how to do it.I initially misread you, did you say you couldn't give up sex for more than an hour? I was thinking your wife must be busy and you would be a very lucky man... or a polygamist.. extremely lucky while you can get away with it. But! then I reread your post, have to agree.I'm down, but I'm not out, it will just be while before I'll be flying again, in the meantime I can slip back into 'f'ing fixit mode which is more or less how it has been since about March last year, when will it ever end? [probalby when I get someone else to do it..]Cheers,Nick.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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Gentlemen,I appreciate your sympathy.Mark,I appreciate your offer, if you do have one spare I would be most thankful if you could forward it to 219 The Round Drive, Avoca Beach NSW 2251, this way at least I can establish a few things about how well it will run if restored.. I have an EJ 18 in the shed that should be a cracker but no redrive to suit unless I mod the adapter plate for it.Fred,You're right, but the follower in this instance stopped at the bottom edge of the block, the OP was about 20 when I cranked it up the other day, well down on the usual 75, but still there, it it may not have suffered any damage as a result of loss of OP. Looking at the ends of the push rod they were the classic brittle failure in some spots and highly polished on the rest, I wonder how long it has been running like this before it failed, and the bend is not a small one, the failure is one such that the rod was not able to separate immediately so it may have been running on a bent rod for either a short time for since the last time I pulled the head off - when I fitted the redrive, I have no idea which it is but would suspect the latter - if you recall had issues with the engine not running well and suspected that I had dropped something down the manifold, I'm beginning to think this is a series of compounding mistakes ending up making one bloody big one - the cheese holes all lined up for this one. Oddly enough I was able to diagnose that that side of the engine was the source for nearly the same reasons as I found I had reversed my leads during the redrive fitting - cold exhaust from one side, having a twin system is very hslpful when it comes to trouble shooting a subi.Tim,Thanks, it would appear from an initial glance the push rod is the only issue to be sorted with the motor, it looks good but I'd liek to do a compression test soo to determine what the pots are like. I've had a nagging suspicion that it was never 100% on all pots but not applied a test to it at any point short of stroking the prop through all pots to see which one was good or bad, one of them was good but not as good as the rest of them.As to the rockers I am mystified - one has R, two have 'p' and another has 'f' on it?? any ideas?? Have I got a dodgy motor?Eka,How do you know that worms taste like dirt??? Thanks for the offer of a manual and I know of the bloke of whom you speak, I think I might have suggested that people contact him of the forum some years back, when I bought the EJ 18 that is sitting in the back of my shed here... yes, I'm thinking of it, jsut have to butcher Ric's redrive... hmmm how to do it.I initially misread you, did you say you couldn't give up sex for more than an hour? I was thinking your wife must be busy and you would be a very lucky man... or a polygamist.. extremely lucky while you can get away with it. But! then I reread your post, have to agree.I'm down, but I'm not out, it will just be while before I'll be flying again, in the meantime I can slip back into 'f'ing fixit mode which is more or less how it has been since about March last year, when will it ever end? [probalby when I get someone else to do it..]Cheers,Nick.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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Nick,On consulting the manual I find it's pretty thin on detail. There is some very usefull stuff in an article from "Contact" magazine.It seems diferent versions (and there are quite a few) of the EA 81 have different pushrod lengths, according to the article this can be quickly determined by the knurling on the pushrod. My pushrods didn't coincide with any listed.If the heads have been shaved the pushrod/rocker/valve geometry may be disturbed, requiring shorter pushrods or machining of the pedestals. Being an old Biker you probably know this.If you have a Fax I will send you the article.John.John EvansThink logically and do things well, think laterally and do things better.
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Nick,On consulting the manual I find it's pretty thin on detail. There is some very usefull stuff in an article from "Contact" magazine.It seems diferent versions (and there are quite a few) of the EA 81 have different pushrod lengths, according to the article this can be quickly determined by the knurling on the pushrod. My pushrods didn't coincide with any listed.If the heads have been shaved the pushrod/rocker/valve geometry may be disturbed, requiring shorter pushrods or machining of the pedestals. Being an old Biker you probably know this.If you have a Fax I will send you the article.John.John EvansThink logically and do things well, think laterally and do things better.
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quote:Originally posted by NiqueNaqueAs to the rockers I am mystified - one has R, two have 'p' and another has 'f' on it?? any ideas?? Have I got a dodgy motor?Nick, the "L" and "R" are stamped on the square block in the middle that the two long head bolts go through. The meaning is only valid if the whole assembly has been assembled correctly. Basically, the "angled" pushrod loads should not be taken by the wave washers.Beginner's quotation - "I hit a bad gust of wind just as I took off"Tim McClureBroken Hill
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quote:Originally posted by NiqueNaqueAs to the rockers I am mystified - one has R, two have 'p' and another has 'f' on it?? any ideas?? Have I got a dodgy motor?Nick, the "L" and "R" are stamped on the square block in the middle that the two long head bolts go through. The meaning is only valid if the whole assembly has been assembled correctly. Basically, the "angled" pushrod loads should not be taken by the wave washers.Beginner's quotation - "I hit a bad gust of wind just as I took off"Tim McClureBroken Hill
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John,Thank you - Fax is 02 43810339Tim,The letters were actually on the rocker arms themselves.. the blocks I did not look at as yet, but will. I don't think the wavy washer has angular loads and its function as I understand is merely as a spacer, nothing more.Thanks for the info.Cheers,Nick.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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John,Thank you - Fax is 02 43810339Tim,The letters were actually on the rocker arms themselves.. the blocks I did not look at as yet, but will. I don't think the wavy washer has angular loads and its function as I understand is merely as a spacer, nothing more.Thanks for the info.Cheers,Nick.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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Nick, Quote from Gregory's Subaru manual No 501 page 41 push rod lengths, 1983-1987 1800cc 230.7 - 231.1 mm 1979-1982 1800cc 231.7 - 232.1 mm 1600cc models 220.4 - 220.8 mmHope this may be of help to you, Des GarvinWhat you focus on grows. Des Gravin Bullsbrook Geraldton's (southern suburb) W.A.
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Nick, Quote from Gregory's Subaru manual No 501 page 41 push rod lengths, 1983-1987 1800cc 230.7 - 231.1 mm 1979-1982 1800cc 231.7 - 232.1 mm 1600cc models 220.4 - 220.8 mmHope this may be of help to you, Des GarvinWhat you focus on grows. Des Gravin Bullsbrook Geraldton's (southern suburb) W.A.
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When it was said that this engine was on its side all night it made me wonder if that cylinder filled with oil above the piston.When that happens it is possible to have a hydraulic lock when you go to try to start up.I have seen this happen before on a diesel engine. A guy down the road brought a Bobcat home on the back of a picker truck to do some yard work. He tried to unload the machine over the side and flipped the truck on to its side. They like you didnt put the truck onto its wheels until the next day. He of course tried to start the truck without pulling the injectors. The starter alone had enough power to bend and break a lot of stuff in that engine. The extra high pressure in the combustion chamber holds the valve closed and the push rod breaks trying to open that valve under pressure.Even the short time you did run the engine would likely shine up some of the broken surfaces making you think it had been broke for a long time.Your orginal post of power loss sounds more like carb icing.Something to think about!Flying the wrong side up in Canada
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When it was said that this engine was on its side all night it made me wonder if that cylinder filled with oil above the piston.When that happens it is possible to have a hydraulic lock when you go to try to start up.I have seen this happen before on a diesel engine. A guy down the road brought a Bobcat home on the back of a picker truck to do some yard work. He tried to unload the machine over the side and flipped the truck on to its side. They like you didnt put the truck onto its wheels until the next day. He of course tried to start the truck without pulling the injectors. The starter alone had enough power to bend and break a lot of stuff in that engine. The extra high pressure in the combustion chamber holds the valve closed and the push rod breaks trying to open that valve under pressure.Even the short time you did run the engine would likely shine up some of the broken surfaces making you think it had been broke for a long time.Your orginal post of power loss sounds more like carb icing.Something to think about!Flying the wrong side up in Canada
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John, Des..Got the fax, thanks for all the info, appreciate it.Phil,Appreciate what you are saying. But, I couldn't turn it over due to the broken prop, so I took that off, to do so I had to turn it through a few revs by hand, there was no lock up when this was done. It was the inlet valve push rod so it would have opened with a slight overlap from the exhaust valve, if any of the rods got bent I would have expected the exhaust valve rod to be so, not the inlet valve, as the exhaust valve would try to open against the compression if the pot had a gut full of oil, not the inlet valve. There were no great amounts of oil when it was turned over without the prop either.When it decided to slow down the engine was running at about 4600 revs, which was cruise revs and there was no drop from 4600 at any period of time, it was working full time, the drop was to 3600 or there abouts, attempts were made to clear for any prospective ice but with no effect despite going WOT twice.I won't say that it wasn't ice, I just have my doubts that it was. To preclude any future opportunities for it to be ice I'm going to install permanent heat, so there is no way it can be ice.Thanks for the advice..Cheers,Nick.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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John, Des..Got the fax, thanks for all the info, appreciate it.Phil,Appreciate what you are saying. But, I couldn't turn it over due to the broken prop, so I took that off, to do so I had to turn it through a few revs by hand, there was no lock up when this was done. It was the inlet valve push rod so it would have opened with a slight overlap from the exhaust valve, if any of the rods got bent I would have expected the exhaust valve rod to be so, not the inlet valve, as the exhaust valve would try to open against the compression if the pot had a gut full of oil, not the inlet valve. There were no great amounts of oil when it was turned over without the prop either.When it decided to slow down the engine was running at about 4600 revs, which was cruise revs and there was no drop from 4600 at any period of time, it was working full time, the drop was to 3600 or there abouts, attempts were made to clear for any prospective ice but with no effect despite going WOT twice.I won't say that it wasn't ice, I just have my doubts that it was. To preclude any future opportunities for it to be ice I'm going to install permanent heat, so there is no way it can be ice.Thanks for the advice..Cheers,Nick.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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