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  • #16
    Wot the ell go'n on ere,have you two kissed and madeup or sumth'n????????Bring back the fire works,I hate this soppy stuff.Ignorance is bliss............but only till you realise you were.

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    • #17
      Holy smoke Birdy, maybe I put one of those "kisses"[:X] smilies on a reply to Marty!!!! LOLI will do my best to be nicer "most of the time to most of the posters"!!!!!!![]Aussie Paul. []www.firebirdgyros.com

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      • #18
        Hello all, especially Paul,Paul, I'm assuming, from your description, that you have placed some compressable spacers/washers between the side to side rocking block and the flanged spacers that rotate in the bushes that support it.Wouldn't this be an inappropriate modification? It would mean that the block would be continually moving back and forth on the through bolt which should only be locking the flanged spacers to the block.If movement was required, wouldn't it be technically better to fit longer spacers and fit the compressable washers between the flanges and the mounting blocks, so that the load and wearing surfaces are still between the flanged spacer and it's bush?If I have been presumptuous, I apologise.Fish.

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        • #19
          A "Slider head" has a spring arrangement on the for/aft (longnitudinal) bolt.M Barker

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          • #20
            Ahhh Shuddup Birdy ! go chase a cow or somethin' !I wann'a know what a slider head is too ! its school time buddy ! hehehehecheers !Bob........." Momm'a alwayse told me , Son the impossable is only a little bit Harder... and ya know I do believe She was RIGHT ! "

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            • #21
              Slider head, as requested.Image Insert: 79.94

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              • #22
                Telf,How much meat is there either side of the bolt holes in the plates with the slider in it?Seems a little thin to me.IF one of the springs breaks off what restrains your slider bolt from falling out?Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you

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                • #23
                  Nick,Sorry mate, not my head. It was just a photo I had kept from last year when the topic came up.Not sure who posted it but it was in relation to the earlier part of this thread.I can certainly see what you are getting at though.I assume (bad idea) that you wouldn't allow too much unsprung play in the system so that if a spring broke, the worst case is that you would have bad, but not destructive, stick shake for the trip back to earth/nearest road/airstrip.I am assuming also that the sliding bolt is attached to the centre block else there would be no use having the springs.Any comments from slider head owners?telfFlying - The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. (Douglas Adams-The Hitch-Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy)

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                  • #24
                    quote:Originally posted by NiqueNaqueTelf,How much meat is there either side of the bolt holes in the plates with the slider in it? Enough NickSeems a little thin to me.IF one of the springs breaks off what restrains your slider bolt from falling out? Nick,The the slider bolt as you call it is attched to the U block and cannot come out. They have been using them in the US for quite a few years so I doubt anyone here will find a problem.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for youAussie Paul.[]www.firebirdgyros.com

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                    • #25
                      Here is a pic of it fully fitted out, and another type used in Europe.Regards Sam.Image Insert: 60.83

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                      • #26
                        Question: it seams to be an adiquite method of removeing the shake to me , but isn't a shake a warning sign that the rotors are not ballanced properly?seams to me it just is masking the problem, and the rotors them selves should be properly ballanced.... is this a misconseption and a rotor can shake anyway... even if perfectly ballanced ? if so I'ed think all heads should be of the slideing head verity..........I know its purdy and all that when its clean but shouldn't there be OIL on those moveing parts ? no doubt about one thing... thats a stoutly built rotor head ! thanks for the schooling fellas' !c ya Bob......" Momm'a alwayse told me , Son the impossable is only a little bit Harder... and ya know I do believe She was RIGHT ! "

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                        • #27
                          Paul,How do you know it is 'enough'?Telf,I understood from another version of this type of head there is a grub screw in the pitch block, is this the case?Bob,The slider head arrangement is to reduce the amount of back / forward shake associated with the two per rev shake, which comes about normally in flight.Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you

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                          • #28
                            I've got zero shake and most reckon mine is the best they have seen. The method is stringline, then balance the assembled blades, then shim and fly. Just keep shiming the cotton reels until it gets smooth. One way will be worse and the other better. Shake is not good for any structure. Ken

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                            • #29
                              Ken :For us Non Aussies could you explane SHIM and Cotton reels ?My rotor has no shims and if there's a cotton reel on it I'll take iot back toi the farm and say I'm sorry Pop ! I didn't realise I stol your farm equipment ! Seriously ...I have no idea what ya mean ! ...string line I got ! gott'a do that on my rotor too.thanks for the info. !Bob......" Momm'a alwayse told me , Son the impossable is only a little bit Harder... and ya know I do believe She was RIGHT ! "

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                              • #30
                                Cotton reels are the bearings or bushes in the towers the teeter bolt goes through. By shimming one way or the other you change the centre point of rotation. This gives minute adjustment to an out of balance system. Don't know why it works but it does. Too many people get bogged down in theory and still fly machines that shake like zhit. It works for me so I assume it will work for others. KKKKKen

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