I purchased this recently... mulling over how to fit it & any traps apart from power surges at inappropriate moments...It"s a T3 turbocharger with exhaust A/R of 0.63 and Inlet A/R 0.5, so it will boost in the mid range a bit and should spool up quickly to avoid lag - at about 1600~2000 engine RPM it should be fully spooled up - I"m hoping to achieve about 100hp at 4000 RPM out of a subi EA-81 with mild boosting. I"ll put in a recirculation valve on the inlet to control the boost as well, target is max 7psiIt weighs 8.5kg, so I"m going on a diet to lose that much - good incentive Any +constructive+ suggestions?
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EA 81 + T3 Turbo Charger
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Murray,I"m resurrecting my zombie gyro... it has a stock EA-81 engine, "gyrobits" toothed belt redrive with a 2.2:1 reduction, warp drive 72" prop. It flew as shown but was not the most confidence inspiring machine.The first phase will be connect the exhaust side & run it up without boost, to see what effect it has - if John Evans is right it should make a nice muffler at this point. The key idea is to see when it starts to spool up, and what sort of pressures & flows can be expected.I"ll be pitching the prop up by +5° before I start it up and run it connected to the carbs.I"ll also have to increase the fuel pump pressure because if the boost exceeds the fuel pressure it will run out of fuel -
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Jeebus... it looks scarey. I"m trying to see where my T3 will fit. Thanks for posting the pics.On the EGT - try swapping one injector with the other & see if the heat follows the injector.. High EGT usually means a lean mix - the rich one driving the lean one. The injectors:Are they mechanically & electrically calibrated???Is their electrical resistance the same?Do they both squirt the same amount of fuel with the same pulse?Try also the "indicated" power" trick, where - after you chain it up so it won"t run away - pull a spark plug lead and see what loss of RPM occurs with each cylinder, if one drops a lot of rpm compared to others
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That looks great Brownie.... I like it that you have the radiator above the motor.... I have blown an EA81 before from the radiator being below the engine... if you lose one liter of water out of the system, it is the heads that cook.... and Subarus don"t like to be overheated
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Tony,You are right, there are engine, gearbox & prop combinations that just work, like a rotax 914... I do have a couple of carbs on short risers which most likely would have been just fine for paddock work, I know I can just disconnect the inlet manifold & it will work fine without turbo. What I want to achieve with my rig is not the screaming banshee broomstick terror ride... but a gyro that gives best cruise at 3600 ~ 3800 RPM really comfortably using a little boost and slightly coarse prop. If I lose 10kg so I can have this, it will be great. If it can take off with lots of power up its sleeve that too will be great.Merry Xmas,Nic.
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lol. I tried and achieved the losing weight thing when I first started to learn to fly. went to jenny craig and over a period of time lost 19 kg. [ in my best week I lost 1.9 kg ] kept going to work and drilling a new hole in my belt for tightening the buckle. I loved it, but my family and friends said I looked as if I was sick so I went back to them to put on 9 kg.[ I wanted to be just 100 kg ] thought I was a real smart ass having to put weight back on. so any way I eventually put it all back on. [ yeah bloody silly bugger ] any way it"s easier to buy the extra fuel open the throttle and keep the weight. it"s not what I really want it"s just easier.
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I think the temperature comment was more about where the exhaust pipe is when the motor is hot and the prop stops when you turn off the motor. I have seen black scorch marks on wood props from a hot exhaust close to the prop when the engine stops.... Just look at any prop blade near the exhaust and measure the temp on that blade 2 minutes after you shut the hot engine down.... or turn the prop by hand so no blades are right beside the hot exhaust
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