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Hi guys,I live in India. Used to live in Brisbane 3 years ago (Worked for the RACQ). I might have met some of you. ( I had attended an exhibition called "big boys toys" at the convention centre where your club had show cases some autogyros.)I now live in India and want to build my own autogyro ( I cant afford a new one because of the dollar - rupee conversion rates ). I was wondering if any one of you could give me an Idea of what it takes. Being a complete novice I may be in over my head but am still optimistic.I want to use a suzuki engine (1.3 swift). I remeber one of your club members had a 2 seater powered by one of these. Can any one help me?Thanks,Muthanna Mapangada
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I'm with you!I live in Argentina and have been facinated with the idea of, at least, be able to gather the pieces that make an autogyro. My financial state is no great either. Regards
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I'm with you!I live in Argentina and have been facinated with the idea of, at least, be able to gather the pieces that make an autogyro. My financial state is no great either. Regards
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Gentlemen,You should both check whether you will be permitted to fly one in your country of choice.I might suggest that you look at the plans built version of the gyrobee by Ron Taggart, look him up on the web via google or metacrawler. An off the shelf gyro over here might cost you from 10k to 15k, convert that and you will have an idea of $$#$$$$$$$Other than money, it will take time, lots of it, in your cases maybe 200 - 400 hours because you are doing a lot of engineering and most likely more of it will be manual if you have poor access to machine shops and the like.Hope this helps,Nick.
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Thank you!I'vee seen the plans and noticed they are in british units. Any chance to have them in metrics?
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Marcelo,The taggart drawings are most likely in inches.one inch (1") = 25.4 mmone foot (1') = 12 inches = 12 x 25.4 mmif the dims are inches and fractions, eg, 2 5/8", that will be (2 x 25.4) + (5 x 25.4/8).you could always get an imperial to metric tape measure and rule to check this off.if you can't work it out from there on I suggest you don't build one, accuracy and conversion are critical in relation to the position of some items.hope this helps,Nick.
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I can work out conversions. It's just that I know that adaptations will have to be made due to lack of british dimensioned materials in countries like ours where metrics is the std system. On the other hand, If I happen to go ahead I would be more than happy to publish the plans modified to metrics.
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In that event with the materials, make them thicker, not thinner. Use 6061-T6 alloy, it has known properties, if you read through the notes on this forum you'll see that using alternate metals has had some unhappy consequences, eg, hub bar failures. Do not reduce the cross section of any metals by machining, that too is disasterous, leave everything whole and happy. Do not use stainless steel sections, they are susceptible to fatigue.Make sure that hollow sectioned materials such as RHS have generous fillets on their internal corners, some extrusions have square corners in lieu of radiused ones, this is important.When you mark out drilling locations ensure that the drill does not score the inside of the tube, if it does that will cause a failure. Where holes are drilled on the centre of a section make sure that there is a crush tube fitted to prevent the failure of the section.You could always go to Aircraft Spruce for imperial sized sections.Hope this helps,Nick.
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Thank you Nick.You are indeed very kind. Information like the one you give away is not easy to find. Kind Regards. Marcelo
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Marcelo,No problem, as you've seen you can post here, I'm only one of the helpers, there are a lots of others.Cheers,Nick
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