OK ... your doing the pre-flight inspection of the rotors.How do you do the inspection??What are you looking for??Note what type of rotors you are inspecting.Ross B
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Pre-flight Rotor Inspection
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well i guess if your wanting to inspect the rotors, i spose while, ur cleaning them ,* if your rotors have rivets in them you could be looking for hair line cracks* checking the bolts that hold them on to the hub bar!* maybe delamination in the skins* main bolts , teeter bolt , run the spanner across them all . possibly no real way how to tell if the rotor its self has much of a weak point in it.just a good general visual look.if you have any doubts dont fly...cheers adrian
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With Patroneys, I check the leading edge of the blades checking for chips /de lamination and usually at the same time give them a wipe with a wet rag to clean the leading edge at the same time.I visually check the side of the hub bar and top for any cracks while making sure no nuts ,bolts or anything else is missing .The best pre flight is the last flight.
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OK, I’ll have to answer my own question, as I consider a bit of extra detail may be helpful....To make a thorough inspection possible the blades need to be in reasonable clean condition. Hub BarThis applies to the Goodwin, AK, Jack Allen, Gyrotech, Patrony type bars.You need to get some access to the bar, so if you can’t get there by standing on the seat, get a ladder. A ladder is your best bet, as it gives you good view of both the top and bottom of the hub bar with both hands free. So now your looking down onto the top of the bar. Look for dents, cracks or scratches. Check both sides , top and bottom of the bar. Inspect the bar close to the teeter block for evidence of binding or contact with the towers. Use your hand and run it over the surfaces, it should be smooth and polished finish. Double check the underside of the bar, near the teeter stops to make sure there is no damage to this area from flapping. Teeter Block Check the teeter block for the integrity of the bolt/bolts. If these bolt heads are marked with anti tamper paint, you’ll see any small movement. Check the nuts as well. You may need a torch to inspect these. Same deal with the anti tamper paint, if there not marked, you are only going to see any major changes. Look at the block as it sits on the bar, has it moved in any way. Is it twisted on the bar, or is it sitting correctly. If you have any packing under the block, make sure it is still in place and secure. Check the margins around the base of the block were it sits on the bar to ensure these are clean. What you’re looking for is any evidence of something happening under the teeter block. This may show as corrosion at the margin or any signs of
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With Patroneys, I check the leading edge of the blades checking for chips /de lamination and usually at the same time give them a wipe with a wet rag to clean the leading edge at the same time.I visually check the side of the hub bar and top for any cracks while making sure no nuts ,bolts or anything else is missing .The best pre flight is the last flight.You did miss to mention(as i hope you know about it) the little hole in the end of the blade that allows the blade inner pressure equalise, or vicaversa
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Ross,I areee with everything you said except the point about the "hub bar being smooth and polished"having done work with Steve Waddell on his hub bar project, I remember that he noted the finish on hub bars. It was his opinion that the finish SHOULD be shot peaned. The reason for this was that a shot peaned finish reduces the surface tensility (there is a word!) which makes the aluminiunm far less likely to start surface micro fractures which eventually work their way into fatigue cracks.Regards,Mark
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You did miss to mention(as i hope you know about it) the little hole in the end of the blade that allows the blade inner pressure equalise, or vicaversaYeah, I do kow about that little hole but I dont check it every day though and thats why I didnt mention it.Crikey, a polished hub bar ? mine looks nothing like that Ross
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