Solong as you stay that side o the line Russ, your safe.1942??? I wozn't even ere then, but if I woz, I woulda been there with bells on, make'n sure they never crossed that line.Ignorance is bliss............but only till you realise you were.You can always get the answer you want, if you ask enough experts.
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Stop ya hijackin ya mongrels. This thread is about putting a pre-rotator on my gyro not a pissin comp.Still no advice forthcoming thus far. Although I think Birdy wants me to get one already done from Rosco. Which Id love to do just havent got the funds.Cheers allCam
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Sorry Cam.I can't see how the position of a PR is going to make the head shake more or less, only adding one would amplify any shake already present in the systm.The only advice I can give is don't use the 'reduction' types, coz they are more complex, heavier and the weight hangs further from the 'pivot' than a direct drive, all of witch will amplify any shake. Except using a smaller ring gear, I don't see how any setup could be more 'machine friendly' than roscos.Ignorance is bliss............but only till you realise you were.You can always get the answer you want, if you ask enough experts.
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CamI'm with you about this. Lately things have gone down hill. Topics are sidetracked to just a heap of dribble. If you can't spell (like me) thats ok, but I think the attemt at humour or whatever has gone way to far. I know we speek Australian but the educated (above preschool) read and write in english.It's to the point that I don't even bother reading posts when I see certain names, which is a shame, because these people have a lot to offer the rest of us.Respectfully.Graeme Monro
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No worries Birdy. I wont bother with the reduction types.Ta..What I am asking is do I drill through the Torq Tube?What sort of fastenings do you reccomend. I think the tube is solid so do I need to drill right through? Or tap the tube and bolt to it. What is going to weaken things most?Where dont I drill ads I am concerned as to weakening the component.I don't want to re-invent the wheel as I am sure this wheel has been invented and some done better than others. I want to be up to speed before I march on.Any takers??
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Those who saw my motorcycle starter prerotator at the Nationals and thought it was sluggish were right, the poor little 5.5 amp hour battery was on its last legs. I've replaced it with a 17 amp hour sealed type (very low internal resistance), it spins the rotor to 120 rpm without the assistance of the alternator, I haven't seen what it will go to with help, but I noticed the volts don't go below 10 now.It only weighs about 2.5 kilos, compared with about 5.5 for car starters, and will run on a smaller battery.I have assumed that less mass up there results in less stick shake.John EvansThink logically and do things well, think laterally and do things better.
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Birdy, the reduction starter motors are in fact lighter, and in most cases will accelerate the blades quicker, but not necessarily spin them any faster.John, it seems that you have that motorcycle starter sorted. 120 rrpm is pretty good for an electric setup. If the starter appears to cause a rotor shake it is generally only amplifing a shake that is already there (in some cases this can be the normal lead/lag shake). The increased shake is caused by a hamonic that can come from many things - mast length, air buffeting (aerodynamics), starter location, starter weight, distance from roll or pitch pivot, overall gyro weight, speed and probably many others. What works as a fix for some may not work for another. Each case has to be addressed independently.TimTim McClure
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Doc,What starter did you use?What problems were encountered if any?Can you post a pic, I'm interested.telf of the red dust (soon to be telf of the Darwin drinkers)Flying - The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. (Douglas Adams-The Hitch-Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy)
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