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Can any of the LEARNERED folks on here be able to tell me whiether the adding of friction reducing additives is advisable/recomended/not recomended.My first thoughts is no, as the clutch in the gearbox uses the same oil as the motor..Yes Nic i did look in the manual, and no Nic i havent rang the importer to ask them, only thought of this late this arvo..Thanks guysr0t0rcraft.com.au
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Hi bones, I havent got a 912 but I have used Slick 50 in most engines both on the farm and in the gyro and have not seen any adverse effects . I know that Slick 50 in a gear box/transfer case in a Diahatsu 4x4 reduced temp considerably and enabled a faster top speed and seemed to reduce wear. The experiment was based on 10 years before Slick 50 and the time after slick 50 and the result was conclusive! The second case was a motorbike that wasnt well, using quite a bit of oil, blowing blue smoke and looking like a rebuild was not far away,the motor was treated and the result was obvious, less smoke, reduced oil consumption and more speed [verified by the pace of 3 other bikes that regularly raced for camp after yarding up ] and the fact that the bike did another couple of years work. It was ridden by a young whipper snapper at this time who had no idea of what I had done to the bike and his comment at the end od day 2 after treatment was that he was amazed that the old bike could now keep up with the rest no problems and was running really well !!!The EA 81 motor in my first gyro kept going for approx 15 minutes with no oil pressure and the temp gauge pegged [found a big mob of goats just as the motor went and I wasnt going to put down while she would run] so I kept right up her till we had the mob together and then put down, the motor was still running but sounding very rarspy !!!I have tried other additives but only slick 50 has worked !! I recommend it as well as using Flashlube in your fuel !!BrianPooncarie NSW
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Hi bones, I havent got a 912 but I have used Slick 50 in most engines both on the farm and in the gyro and have not seen any adverse effects . I know that Slick 50 in a gear box/transfer case in a Diahatsu 4x4 reduced temp considerably and enabled a faster top speed and seemed to reduce wear. The experiment was based on 10 years before Slick 50 and the time after slick 50 and the result was conclusive! The second case was a motorbike that wasnt well, using quite a bit of oil, blowing blue smoke and looking like a rebuild was not far away,the motor was treated and the result was obvious, less smoke, reduced oil consumption and more speed [verified by the pace of 3 other bikes that regularly raced for camp after yarding up ] and the fact that the bike did another couple of years work. It was ridden by a young whipper snapper at this time who had no idea of what I had done to the bike and his comment at the end od day 2 after treatment was that he was amazed that the old bike could now keep up with the rest no problems and was running really well !!!The EA 81 motor in my first gyro kept going for approx 15 minutes with no oil pressure and the temp gauge pegged [found a big mob of goats just as the motor went and I wasnt going to put down while she would run] so I kept right up her till we had the mob together and then put down, the motor was still running but sounding very rarspy !!!I have tried other additives but only slick 50 has worked !! I recommend it as well as using Flashlube in your fuel !!BrianPooncarie NSW
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Brian, it would be a no brainer if the gearbox was seperate for the motor, and yes i second slick 50 very good, and that was my thinking this arvo on the way home, why not throw some in the next oil change then i remembered the clutch in the box,even if it was the same oil with out the clutch it would be going in for sure but the clutch has me concerned....Dont want to be changing the clutch pack just yet....r0t0rcraft.com.au
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Brian, it would be a no brainer if the gearbox was seperate for the motor, and yes i second slick 50 very good, and that was my thinking this arvo on the way home, why not throw some in the next oil change then i remembered the clutch in the box,even if it was the same oil with out the clutch it would be going in for sure but the clutch has me concerned....Dont want to be changing the clutch pack just yet....r0t0rcraft.com.au
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Mark,Not having seen the manual, is the clutch a wet multi plate clutch as in a motorcycle, if so Brian's experiment with the bike would indicate it *may* work, I would have your reservations though.Just to recount Wal Flaks experience with using synthetic oil in his Rolls Royce aero engine which grounded him at Alice springs - the synthetic oil gunged up the hydraulic valve lifters and required an emergency landing, result - Wal Flaks doing officialing, most flexible of him. The manual for the RREA recommends the use of mineral oil for the reason that the hydraulic lifters would be impaired, as I recall Wal's were blocked by the additives in the oil or by the very nature of the oil itself, I will note however, that you are not necessarily using synthetic oil - the lesson for Wal was to stick with the manufacturer's recommended lubricants.Brian,You seem most impressed with the slick 50, I might try it in my EA 81, but do you have any reservations at as to why you shouldn't?Cheers,Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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Mark,Not having seen the manual, is the clutch a wet multi plate clutch as in a motorcycle, if so Brian's experiment with the bike would indicate it *may* work, I would have your reservations though.Just to recount Wal Flaks experience with using synthetic oil in his Rolls Royce aero engine which grounded him at Alice springs - the synthetic oil gunged up the hydraulic valve lifters and required an emergency landing, result - Wal Flaks doing officialing, most flexible of him. The manual for the RREA recommends the use of mineral oil for the reason that the hydraulic lifters would be impaired, as I recall Wal's were blocked by the additives in the oil or by the very nature of the oil itself, I will note however, that you are not necessarily using synthetic oil - the lesson for Wal was to stick with the manufacturer's recommended lubricants.Brian,You seem most impressed with the slick 50, I might try it in my EA 81, but do you have any reservations at as to why you shouldn't?Cheers,Nicholas TomlinAlarmist - www.alarmist.com.au - we scare for you
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Nick, Slick 50 in my Rotax "B" box behind a 582 training helped with the gearbox temp and it stayed smoother for longer untill maintainence was required.Aussie Paul.[
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Nick, Slick 50 in my Rotax "B" box behind a 582 training helped with the gearbox temp and it stayed smoother for longer untill maintainence was required.Aussie Paul.[]Image Insert: 74.82
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Er Nick, that's not quite correct as I recall it. I did explain it to Wal, but he must have forgotten!It seems that when an engine using leaded fuel i.e. avgas is changed to a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1, the oil mobilises lead deposits throughout the lubication system, these can then block up oil passages. The passages in the hydraulic lifters are pretty fine, so were the first to go. This was probably fortunate as the loss of compression saved the rest of the engine.This problem is well known in GA.One has to be carefull adding any sort of slippery stuff to some engines, if they have any device depending on friction for its operation they will make it fail. I know because I put Mobil 1 in my BMW K100, the starter would fail to engage most of the time as it uses a sprag.Better put that in your list of things not to do!JohnJohn EvansThink logically and do things well, think laterally and do things better.
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Er Nick, that's not quite correct as I recall it. I did explain it to Wal, but he must have forgotten!It seems that when an engine using leaded fuel i.e. avgas is changed to a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1, the oil mobilises lead deposits throughout the lubication system, these can then block up oil passages. The passages in the hydraulic lifters are pretty fine, so were the first to go. This was probably fortunate as the loss of compression saved the rest of the engine.This problem is well known in GA.One has to be carefull adding any sort of slippery stuff to some engines, if they have any device depending on friction for its operation they will make it fail. I know because I put Mobil 1 in my BMW K100, the starter would fail to engage most of the time as it uses a sprag.Better put that in your list of things not to do!JohnJohn EvansThink logically and do things well, think laterally and do things better.
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Well thanks to Scott Essex off the yanky site this info come to me,Rotax recomends synthetic oil, Remember, rotax builds more motorcycle engines than anyone else in Europe, the 912 is the latest motorcycle technology applied to aircraft use, tight tolerances, exotic metals, high RPM, etc.Use synthetic motorcycle oil but do not add any friction modifiers.DO NOT use aircraft oil like aeroshell etc. Both will harm the clutch.Yes the gearbox and engine use the same oil. Most motorcycles as well. Motorcycle oil is forulated with special additives to handle the shear-loads of gears, and usually more zinc as an antiwear additive, zinc doesn't like catalitic converters, so automotive oil is formulated differently.So that sort of confirms my thoughts..r0t0rcraft.com.au
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Well thanks to Scott Essex off the yanky site this info come to me,Rotax recomends synthetic oil, Remember, rotax builds more motorcycle engines than anyone else in Europe, the 912 is the latest motorcycle technology applied to aircraft use, tight tolerances, exotic metals, high RPM, etc.Use synthetic motorcycle oil but do not add any friction modifiers.DO NOT use aircraft oil like aeroshell etc. Both will harm the clutch.Yes the gearbox and engine use the same oil. Most motorcycles as well. Motorcycle oil is forulated with special additives to handle the shear-loads of gears, and usually more zinc as an antiwear additive, zinc doesn't like catalitic converters, so automotive oil is formulated differently.So that sort of confirms my thoughts..r0t0rcraft.com.au
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