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  • #46
    Everyone has opinions and mine is that the pump stick is the more natural movement. When your arm is resting on your leg and you pull back on the stick, to me it is more comfortable to lift and pull than to just pull your arm straight back along your leg.The reason some use the other type of setup is they do not have the room under their seat. You need more height clearance to operate a pump stick.Graeme.

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    • #47
      I"m with Graeme, I prefer the pump stick, I have the "Brock set up on my 2 seat tandem and a "Pump" on my single seater. Personally I can"t say I" ve experienced or noticed the stick movement on the pump set up that you are refering to Mark.Nice job on the build Kawasaki. RegardsRob

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      • #48
        after rebushing once i thought there had to be a better idea, i"ve fitted rod ends to all the pivots except the 2 on the main keel.even got

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        • #49
          conventionial style i mean. no more wearing parts.

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          • #50
            Re Tony Denton"s use of spherical rod ends.Friends of mine in Melbourne are building a Suby powered Hornet "bush plane" (manufactured up at Taree as a kit), for use as a glider tow plane.Of considerable interest to me is the fact that the Hornet manufacturer uses spherical rod ends at the hinge points for some of the control surfaces in his aircraft. For instance, the rudder hinges on 3 spherical rod ends identical to those used for our vertical control rods. I was a bit intrigued about how that triple rod end arrangement would cope with structural deflections, but I guess it works!Re Graeme Monro"s preference for pump sticks. I also have absolutely no problem with pump sticks, and always flew pump sticks with my control stick hand resting on my right leg. So, the risk of unintended stroking was extremely minimal. Nevertheless, my current job is to alert builders to the pros and cons of each arrangement and not so much to issue "thou shalt edicts". Everyone (or almost everyone) in the gyro community is a grown up capable of undertaking risk assessment, provided they have reliable information upon which to make their individual decisions. That"s what I try and do with my Gyro News articles. Ultimately, each gyronaut flies at their own risk, with ASRA standing behind them to monitor construction standards and ongoing technical compliance (via the Construction Standards and TA oversight) and to monitor their airborne behaviour (via Instructor Oversight). The Board strives to achieve the proper balance between promoting individual technical creativity and diversity on the one hand but making sure that if something gets too oddball or technically risky that our checks and balances will pick it up and prevent someone placing themselves at too great a risk. I find that a great many "start up" ideas that appear very racey and sometimes downright wacky on paper mature gradually throughout the actual build process into much more conservative and quite worthwhile machines in the end.Mark R

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            • #51
              Everyone has opinions and mine is that the pump stick is the more natural movement. When your arm is resting on your leg and you pull back on the stick, to me it is more comfortable to lift and pull than to just pull your arm straight back along your leg.The reason some use the other type of setup is they do not have the room under their seat. You need more height clearance to operate a pump stick.Graeme.I"m with Graeme, I prefer the pump stick, I have the "Brock set up on my 2 seat tandem and a "Pump" on my single seater. Personally I can"t say I" ve experienced or noticed the stick movement on the pump set up that you are refering to Mark.Nice job on the build Kawasaki. RegardsRobButterflys use pump stick on 3 models and conventional on 4 models.

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              • #52
                another attempt

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                • #53
                  because i didn"t think i could get it to load the photo again i never put in a big blurb. sooo i fitted these rod ends as pivots .3/8". they work well as in not having any play or really look like wearing out at all, and if they do it"s off the shelf so just bolts straight back on . no messy machining small parts.

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                  • #54
                    the front is the same idea as the back basically

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                    • #55
                      ok just to clear up a few points that might get asked from people with a keen eye. the geomoetery uses much more travel

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                      • #56
                        TonyNo one can argue with that ;D ;D ;D!!!!You have got the posting of photos down pat now. TimC

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                        • #57
                          i had it a while ago and thought i would remember it all ok but never posted for abit and lost the plot totally. worst part is i lost the written instructions on how to load the photos. i"ve tahen a few photos whiole flying so i might load them on the right post to keep in practice.

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                          • #58
                            Refitted the brakes to the rear wheels - I am using Shimano hydraulic mountain bike brakes which are very light weight and effective. It will only be time that will confirm how durable they are in this application. On mountain bikes they are mounted on the left side of the bike, in this application it meant one side has the calliper behind the axle and on the other side it is in front. Couple of photos to show how they mount up.Just for Loafar I have included a photo of my single car garage that I have converted to my work shop - no where near enough room, but I am managing with a modular build. Needless to say final storage will be else where! :P

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                            • #59
                              Thanks to all those that contributed to Loafar"s post about tall tails - timing was perfect. This weekend was spent making the tail - well the frame work at least. I decided quite a while ago that I was not going to use a tall tail and was going to have a more traditional approach. Once again no fibre glass - all alloy construction ( plus a trip to Homemaker hardware - not sure that my wife agrees with the home maker bit though :P)The horizontal stabilizer is big, 1.4m wide and will have a cord of 350mm. The position is low with the centre 30%

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                              • #60
                                Very impressive, mate!I hope mine is half as impressive!Tell me, when are you gonna replace that dirty, great lump of wood with an aluminium cheek plate?

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