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I don"t believe ants can survive at altitude, time to get it off the ground Nick.
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nique, is the console fuel indicator a tube that you can see the fuel being pumped through ??? or some thing different ??
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Tony,It is a simple 6ø clear pvc tube on the side of the console, fixed into position with saddles. It runs in a loop up to the overhead vent tee at near rotor head level so there"s less chance of bleed out. I"m yet to mark off the fuel levels for S&L flight.Cheers,Nic.
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I bet the ants were shocked
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Murray,They sure moved out in a hurry, shocked and dizzy - where they went I"m not sure, but I"ll put down some surface spray to make sure they don"t come back.
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Prolly even just spray a bit of WD40 under the cap and wipe it out each service..... I doubt they will like the smell... that and the surface spray around the machine should help
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Now, after the little black f...kers got in and did their thing to my coil, I decided to put two new ones on in a parallel dual coil arrangement... just in case one breaks down.. grrrr >;(I also put in another fuel pump to run in parallel with the existing fuel pump and had both coils and both pumps and the alternator regulator individually fused and switched so I could test that they are working during my pre-flight checks.I had it going nicely at idle and then [so as not to call the dragon lady out of her tv infested lair] trailered it all the way out to West Gosford to give it a belting and make sure it was working properly... isn"t it funny how the best of intentions will be surely punished??Of course when I got there it ran like a dog... wtf... couldn"t get the mongrel to run up smoothly at all, anything past 1200 RPM had it coughing and barking and stuttering like a swamp bullfrog on heat with a touch of pneumonia.. talk about annoying. I tried adjusting the idle screws in and out, checked the vacuum levels were the same, checked for spark and it was woeful still.. here I am expecting to see huge blue flashes but there was bugger all.. and the plugs were sooted up as well. Not happy, not at all. I haven"t checked yet, but maybe those little black f...kers just moved into my dizzy from the coil.. I didn"t see where they went but will now be looking vewy, vewy cwosewy...Then checked the spark output at each coil and found there was a dependency on one but not the other, if it was started it would run on either but would only start if one of them was on, but the other would not enable it to start.There seemed to be no shortage of fuel and turning off the new pump or the old pump made no difference.Thinking back I saw that the turbo had oil in its intake, I"m not sure if it was there because I mistakenly left the bucket on the air filter that I put on it to protect it from rain if it should, I"m thinking it may have sucked the oil out of the turbo when I tired to start it with the bucket on.. big vacuum then. I mopped it up and it ran without any further oil on the intake.So, I am going to take the nuke"em option and have ordered new leads, plugs, points, rotor cap, rotor button and condenser to eliminate that possible problem... it happens when they arrive either wednesday, thursday or friday, I acquired these things through ebay so I hope they will be right... $79 including freight - I can"t complain about the price but I do wonder about the quality.So, now I am wondering if anyone else has had this experience with a Subi - did you sort out your problems yet Browny?cheers,Nic.
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Make sure the dizzy is earthed to the casing, that the motor is earthed to the frame, the pieces of frame are earthed properly to each other,,,, use decent size wire for earthing wires, and then make sure they are all getting good connection with the battery.... A lot of times people have had intermittent faults because one part of the frame is not quite making perfect contact with the but that is directly earthed.... sometimes some things are only earthing thru arial coax or whatever.... in other words, make sure everything is earthed correctly (including your radiator for stray current)Also, humour me, check the nipples on your spark plugs aren"t loose
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Nic, how our your coils wired up? Do you have points or electronic ignition? I was wondering if your coils have enough saturation time to get a full charge or are they only partly charging because you now have two coils charging from the one circuit? Browny, have you tried retarding the total ignition advance? You will not hear your engine detonate over your prop. I would try limiting the total maximum mechanical advance in the distributor while under boost probably to around 15-20* total advance depending on your compression ratio. You shouldn"t be advancing your timing for a turbo rather retarding it.
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WOF,They"re plain wired in parallel, they each have their own fused supply direct to battery via the dedicated coil switch to test they"re working at preflight. I had a suspicion they"re designed for direct power, not power through a resistor, but as a precautionary measure wired them up with a resistor because I couldn"t get their data from Repco when I bought them. They"re a Mitsubishi clone for use on 2.4L engines, the part is the Fuelmiser CC218 coil.Fuelmiser got back to me with a circuit diagram for the units and it turns out they"re directly powered from the 12V supply - no resistor is required.It didn"t help that they"re not marked with the + and - terminals, so it turned out that the "test bed" was wired with a resistor in circuit, and in the wrong polarity.. surprised it even started at all.The thing about these style of coils is different to the canister coils, the earth of the high voltage side is the negative terminal on the coil, the "iron core" does not provide an earth, and it is the same with the GT40RT red coil pack from Bosch -
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I note your comment about charging and I"ll be putting another condenser on the distributor to allow for both coils to charge the capacitor / condenser while the points are open.I can"t see the need for an extra condenser if you are running single points. I was thinking that if the points were closed long enough to saturate one coil is that closed time long enough to saturate two coils?
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Ok.. this afternoon I had some joy. Put new leads, rotor cap & rotor button in. Direct wired the coils and re-set the points. It started. That is a big improvement. But I blew the fuses, no surprise as they will draw up to 15 amps peak, I had 7.5 fuses in.
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As long as no nipples were injured in the process, all is good
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It"s never what you think it is.... I fixed the dog run this morning - turned out to be the push on connector from the coil to the distributor :-[ it was loose and it didn"t seem to matter how often it was tweaked to hold on, it wouldn"t - replaced it, now it is going smoothly. :-/
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Yesterday I had the opportunity to do some power and endurance testing.I de-pitched from 15° at the tips to 14° at the tips - 3 blade warp drive 72" but this angle is not necessarily correct as the prop hub was not plumb.So the pitch at these angles is 72x22/7xtan15° = 54.304" pitch, and for 14° it is 72x22/7xtan14 = 50.581" so a loss of 3.724" in pitchI made a thrust indicator which senses the load off the prop hub and converts it into lbs of thrust, it isn"t capturing everything though, hence "indicator", more accurately "partial thrust indicator"When the blades were at 15° it indicated partial thrust of 280lb at 3800 RPM, at 14° it indicated 300lb at 4000 RPM. I am keen to get a scale and see how much thrust is being generated :-OThe prop noises at these revs was quite nasty - it builds up a resonance and the trailer & gyro rock back and forth a bit, so I suspect it is still being strangled and also the engine is overloaded and cannot get over the "hump" to kick through to maximum torque and power, the rocking indicates surging... but, max power - that might be a scary place that I don"t want to go to, emergency power might be a better name for it, if say you hit a sink and need power and speed to beat it.
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