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This could be a first...G 2066 is being fitted with a 'Gyro Bits' redrive, this is an itinerary of how I did it:Step one - Buy it!Step two - fit it up:Notes:It looks nice and everything seems to fit nicely as far as the kit itself goes, it bolted straight onto the back of the engine so bolt alignment was good, make sure you remove the old alignment pins before your bolt it up though, there are some issues as below...Traps for some beginners:0: Before you mount the plate up make sure you have some short bolts to pull the spacer up tight onto the crankshaft flange to ensure that the support bearing is properly located, then you can tighten the plate up onto the back of the motor, make sure you apply adequate sealant before you do though...1: Check the bolts in the crank shaft flange. Mine were M 10 x 1.25 (metric fine) and the ones from the kit were M 8 fine. I don't know whether my crank shaft flange had been drilled out and re tapped or if it just came like that, check this before you try to bolt it on. M 10 x 125 fine bolts are hard to come by, I went to 4 different engineering suppliers before I came up with some, at $2.90 each + GST. To fit these up I had to take it all up to the factory and put the fly wheel, bearing spacer and bottom pulley on the precision pedestal drill and drill them, first with a 3/8" bit and then with a 25/64" bit to make sure there was a tight fit for the bolts. Drill them for lock wire and put some antisieze on them before you wind them in.2: The starter motor will interfere with your inlet manifold unless you have twin carbs. The manifold will have to be raised about 32 mm higher by either extending the tubes that drop onto the head or by inserting a 32 mm spacer block made to fit each side.3: Put the top pulley bearings in the freezer for a day before you try to fit them to the top pulley, it will make it easier than trying to wind them in as I did.4: I had to raise my engine by 1/2" to allow the flywheel to clear the engine mount frame, this has been done (cough, cough) temporarily with a couple of pieces of 1/2" ply wood (you've heard of a timber prop!) This in turn will require longer engine mount bolts, again M 10 fine.5: The exhaust system on my machine goes down through the frame behind the seat, that will have to be butchered up to make it fit, I'll probably make it into a twin system now, pics to follow soon.6: The mast will have to be extended, I hope to swing a 72" prop, subject to finding one to suit... anyone got one spare in their back pocket?To do:Extend mastModify joystickFit propNew 3' hub barRaise seat and set CLTHang testMore to follow soon..Cheers,Nick.
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This sounds interesting nick. wheres those pics..L.Magner
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Right,2342 - plugged off dipstick hole with 1/8 bsp plug - Tap $8.50 + plug $0.50 and stuffing around to get them 1.0 hrs2341 - side view of engine and redrive - rough mount at this point2347 - clearance on fly wheel is required, raised engine 1/2"2347 - end view from prop / tail2313 - close up of top pulley bearing with 1/2 nut on, castelated nut and split pin to follow...2312 - inlet manifold rework required by starter motor2345 - temporary packer for engine to make flywheel clear engine support frame at rear2346 - hmmm, I wonder if these keinin carbs will work...?2310/11 - bolt problems - check your crank shaft is not M10 x 1.252343/4 - starter motor causes need to reqork inlet manifold2309 - a rough idea of what it will end up like...get your magnifying glass fellas...Cheers,nick.
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Here's a quiz for all those mettalurgists out there..Is there any reason why copper tubing could not be used to make up the intake manifold?Does anyone have any experience with same?Cheers,Nick.
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Yes simple copper pipe would crack with vibration in that situation..my thoughts anywayMark
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Would have to agree with Mark. Plus I believe it would be too soft and too heavy. Tim McClure
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tim,stop hogging the page space...
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WANTEDTall blond woman with $1,000,000,000 and lear jet.. oops, wrong forum..If anyone has one, I'm looking for a prop for the new redrive I'm fitting.I'm told a 3 blade 72" pitch adjustable prop will do the job, can anyone deal?Cheers,Nick.
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Hiya NickHow wide is that belt?Whatratio is it? Just wondering.Nice looking setup.Thanx Sonny
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Sonny,80 mm (by memory), ratio is 2.2 to 1. nominal horse power is about 80, maybe a tad more to 100 - Ric Douglas (ASRA librarian) is making these and would be able to give you the correct specs on it.Last price was $2850.oo AUS off the shelf. They are a neat unit and may be improved on soon to accomodate a pre rotator PTO, Ric can fill you in.I had some concerns over the location of the prop shaft, being up in lieu of down, but have got some software to predict the COG and therefore fiddle the location of the pilot, engine, etc to derive the best position for everything and make it * CLT * to the millimetre with a full tank of fuel, though I might mod that so it is overslung to make sure that at 1/2 full it will be CLT.Fitting the unit up was quite easy, I did it rough without the manual and will refine it when I get back to it.The real ******* job is a new manifold for the intake and exhaust, that will be fun, but this is one of the joys of owning a gyro.Cheers,Nick.
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Mornin Nick Thank you for the reply.On your intake prob I tend to agree with bones & Tim,but on the other hand as I'm sure your aware there are several diferant grades of copper.I think if the system was mounted in rubber(like my son's 250 Yamaha 4wheeler carbie)I think the cracking problem could be a mut piont.And it shure would be pretty pollished,albeit kinda heavy.I also agree that problem solving and building is the fun part,for me the flying part is only a bonus.G'DaySonny
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Gentlemen,Here is the result of a refit of my machine, first hang test.It is a bad result, the offset 'up' on the redrive has done no wonders for the machines thrustline geometry, as it is now a high thrust line machine, unacceptable in my book, even with a very large stabiliser. Most unhappy with this.The thrust test gave 320 lbs thrust at 4700 RPM at 2.2:1 reduction with a Jack Allen 72 x 44 timber prop. The direct drive result was 260~270 lbs at 3800 RPM with a 54 x 28 timber prop. Reasonably happy with this.Image Insert:
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NickHave you allowed for the additional mass of the horizontal stab? Get all the gear on the machine that you need, and then do the test again. Try doing the test with you sitting on some foam blocks on the seat, get a feel for what impact it has.Seat up further or gym subscription and concentrate on upper body work. Also helps to spin up the rotors.Rumour has it you have managed the impossible by creating a reduction drive machine that makes more noise than direct drive. Is this true?Ross B
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Ross,I amaze people some times, yes, it is true, the beast is even more beastly, a regular howler at the moment, no longer the 54" scarey howling machine,... now the 72" scarier howling machine. It seems to have this awesome throbbing deep noise, which is probably a prop harmonic with the exhaust system. I'm going to put some hot dogs on it to tone the engine noise down but I don't think there will be much that can be done with the prop. One thing at a time...As to the gym, I figure if i regularly exercise my right elbow with several kegs of beer, that should build up the gut muscle which should have an appropriate compensating effect, the upper body work may take too much effort in comparison to several kegs of beer..The horizontal stab will become part of the picture in due course, if done in 2mm 5005 road sign material it should weigh about 6 kg. I'll tie a couple of bricks to the tail to simulate this weight.Cheers,Nick.
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