May also need a tool to extract the output shaft bearing as there doesn"t appear to be much room to fit a conventional puller.Keyed n tapered shaft, mate, a 14lb sledge dose the trick.Just one well directed gentle tap n its dun.
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Birdy. That"s option 2.Russy. Listen, you wingeing old fart. I would have thought by now, that with your centuries ( yes old chap) of experience, that would have learned to check out what one d"head says with other knowing persons before listening to the original d"head. Send it down anyway. Quickly, so I can chuck it down the drain during the cyclone that you sent, erroneously as it turns out, "cos Max wanted it!!!!Lucky Darren is about eh bro!Waddles
Waddles
In aviation, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!
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Hi AllChopper - thanks so much for helping Russ out with the explanation re the hours, I have amended the original post so it now reads recommended oil useful life rather than service intervals. What I wrote originally was probably a little misleading(sorry my fault). I have also stuffed up one of the columns but can"t modify it correctly on my IPad so will fix it up once I am back in the country and have access to a PCDanny - if you are to have a look at the chart you will notice that if you have a oil with a recommended useful life of either 500 or 250 hours, if that oil is being exposed constantly to 100 - 110c then the useful life is very close to what Neil is recommending, I dare say that Neil is aware of the load and temps to which these boxes are exposed to and hence he recommends 25hr change outs on that oil. All - please be aware the figures quoted are purely for comparative purposes and in no way reflect the oil brand or grade you may be currently using, it"s purely for info purposes to show the effect temperature has that"s all.RegardsDarren
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g"day darren, can see what you mean but I"ve never seen my temp go any higher than about 85 and that"s pushing the machine pretty hard at near full power on a hot day. On my cross country runs all around the place oil seems to sit pretty close to 80C in cruise 4.200 rpm input. it doesn"t shift Perhaps that means that my bearings are ok really. Neil definately told me couple of years back when I bought the gearbox that the oil was the castrol synTRAX
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Danny,I"m sure that"s what Neil told me when I picked up the box and again early in the week when I spoke with him.Looking at Darren"s comparisons though, one would have to think that the synTRAN is a better option?How many hours on yout box so far please?Waddles.
Waddles
In aviation, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!
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I have some 140 gear oil recommended for Mack truck diffs. Now a Mack putting out 500 plus Horses with 3 trailers on a day of 40C would likely be under a bit of pressure and yet diffs last millions of K"s.Yep, and a SAE 50W Transmission Oil will be the recommenend oil for the trannie up the front of the same truck. Same 500+ horses and gazillion foot pounds of torque.That Mack diff has a big ol hypoid gear with a sliding action to wipe all those EP additives off as is the principal of these oils.The transmission with helical or straight cut gears doesn"t doesn"t have the same wiping action. Those additives mush on but don"t have an effective way to wipe off. Those clearances are getting tight now. The gears start acting like a gear pump. Trying to compress this thick sh*t takes horsepower and the only way dissipate that horsepower is as heat. The gear may be well lubricated, but you have introduced another problem. In a transmission, you also have to fling the oil around to lubricate various bearings. This is not typically the case in a diff. Everything is semi submerged.3/4 fill a pannikin with diesel and another one with GP grease. Now sir the buggery out of them with a teaspoon. One will end up everywhere, and the other will be stuck in a big lump to the spoon and full of entrained air. Our gyro trannies are not that stressed. Relatively low Hp and Torque. The power is straight through, unlike the poor ol diff where all that grunt has to turn a 90 degree corner..The Rotax 912 uses a multigrade (typically SAE 10W-40) engine oil for both the engine and transmission. But remember it is shared and goes through the
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Guys I have been learning a great deal from this thread thank you!Just a reminder that not all hours of use are equal as the actual load that the gearbox experiences is dependent on the auw ,type and pitch of prop, number of take offs duration of climbs etc.Adrian S
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Not needed for starters Brian.And its too heavy, wont "seep" wen its cold and every gear n bearing actualy pumps it out of the contact area.Other than that, knock yaself out. Thanks Birdy, Moreys is really thick plus the directions recommend around 25% max, depending on application.Miles was saying similiar about using Mack 140 gear oil.All good information.
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Guys I have been learning a great deal from this thread thank you!Just a reminder that not all hours of use are equal as the actual load that the gearbox experiences is dependent on the auw ,type and pitch of prop, number of take offs duration of climbs etc.Adrian SSpot on Adrian, Allan"s baby is a monster with a big 2.5 suby plus he"s got a big prop producing a lot of thrust and I reckon Allan might use all available revs on TO.
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Not to mention its got haul Als fat a55 around all day. Your spoton Adrian.Its one thing for ol grandma to putt round do"n 500 hours a year, but its a different game if the machine is do"n 500 hours at WOT 50% of the time.Birdy, just so I get this right, your saying Waddles has a fat rear end and flies like an old grandma, or he is an old grandma?Graeme.
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